Mar 10, 2021
Vins doux naturels (VDNs), translated to ‘naturally sweet
wines’, are some of the most historic yet underestimated wines in
France. These wines are made using the process of mutage –
adding neutral grape spirit/alcohol – to fermenting wine in order
to halt fermentation and leave sugar in the wine (they aren’t
REALLY naturally sweet wine, although producers will say you are
preserving the natural sweetness of the wine so that’s the
counterpoint).

Image of Rivesaltes: WinesoftheRoussillon.com
The technique of mutage was created in Roussillon in 1285 by
Arnaud de Villeneuve, physician of the Royal House of Barcelona
from 1281 to 1310 and a professor of the University of Montpellier.
It is the same process used to make Port. Here the wine must be
around 6% alcohol by volume when grape spirit is added to kill the
yeast and bring the alcohol in the wine to 15-18% ABV. Wines retain
sugar and this base wine can go many different directions depending
on what the producer wants to present in the bottle.
Although these wines can be made with more than 20 different
grape varieties, two take primacy: Muscat blanc à petit
grains for the white and Grenache noir for
the red.
- Grenache is great as a young wine but can also
be good if aged for years in old oak barrels, sometimes large glass
jars (called bonbonnes or demi-johns) developing
complexity and tertiary aromas (tobacco, saddle, mocha)
- Muscat has fresh, grapey aromas, and naturally
high acidity so the resulting sweet wines are very balanced. These
grapes get more flavor and color if the producer wants to put the
juice in contact with the skins and, like the reds, they can also
be aged oxidatively
Vins Doux Naturels of the Languedoc
We begin the show in the Languedoc, which only produces white
vins doux naturels (VDNs) of the Muscat grape. Each of these wines
is made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and made in a non
oxidative style to show the ripe fruit flavors, honeyed notes and
richness contrasting with the acidity of the grape. Here are the
four VDN appellations of the Languedoc, all of which are fortified
with neutral grape spirit to 15% - 18% alcohol and a minimum of 11%
residual sugar (Saint Jean de Minervois has a minimum of 12.5% RS).
These wines are all golden in color and made of white grapes:
- Muscat de Saint Jean de Minervois: Vineyards
are at elevation so the wines have a better balance of acidity,
more elegance, and are more complex
- Muscat de Frontignan: the biggest area for VdN
in the Languedoc, these wines range in quality but Frontignan has
great historic importance as it probably contains France’s earliest
vineyard sites and was certainly the country’s first VdN
appellation
- Muscat de Lunel is small and the local co-op
makes many of the wines. The best have floral honeyed notes
- Muscat de Mireval is right next to the coast,
immediately northeast of Frontignan and the wines, dominated by
co-op production are rarely seen outside of France
Vins Doux Naturels of
Roussillon
Roussillon was incorporated into France in 1659, but before that
was part of Spain, which it borders. There is a very set Catalan
influence in this area, which is a hybrid of Spanish and French
culture in many ways. Roussillon is shaped like an amphitheater and
borders the Mediterranean Sea, the Pyrenees & the Corbières
Mountains. This sunniest region of France has rivers which shape
the landscape and the terroir.
Roussillon is the epicenter of vins doux naturels, making 80% of
all VDN. It makes white, and more interestingly, reds whose flavors
you will not find anywhere else. After mutage, the VdNs are made
reductively (like regular wine where you try to avoid contact with
oxygen to maintain fresh flavors) or oxidatively, with exposure to
air for varying lengths of time. On the wines of the Roussillon you
will see the following labels:
- Wines that are aged without oxygen (topped off
barrels/reductive) and are fruity and strong:
- Blanc
- Rosé
- Rimage (used for Banyuls)
- Grenat (used for Maury, Rivesaltes)
- If they have a bit of age but are still reductive you will may
see recolté or vendange on the bottle
- Wines that are aged oxidatively in barrels that are not topped
off, thus concentrating flavors and giving the wines more character
(similar to tawny Port, rosé is never aged this way, BTW)
- Ambré: Whites that are oxidatively aged
- Tuilé: Reds that are oxidatively aged
- Rancio: VERY rare category of wine. Either
whites or reds aged for so long that they taste almost like
Madeira. They are aged in glass bonbonnes/demi-Johns that are kept
outside or in attics to gain exposure to the temperature extremes
to intensify flavor
- Hors d’Age: Anything aged more than 5 years
before release, normally oxidatively aged
Vins Doux
Naturel aging in bonbonnes Image Source:
Vig'nette
Roussillon Wines/Areas
Muscat de Rivesaltes can
be made two Muscat varieties blended in varying ratios:
- Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (blend must be at
least 50%) which contributes aromas of tropical, citrus fruits
(lemon)
- Muscat of Alexandria which offers aromas and
flavors of flowers, herbs (mint) and peaches
- The wine mellows over time to have honeyed, baked fruit
flavors
Rivesaltes is France's largest sweet-wine
appellation, in terms of area and volume. Rivesaltes wines are
blends or single varieties. Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Grenache
Noir and Macabeu are the main grapes used

- When made from white varieties they can be Rivesaltes
Ambré (nutty and caramelized), rancio
(Madeira-like, baked notes) or Hors d’Age (aged 5+
years)
- Rivesaltes Rosé is a fresh, fruity wine made
mainly of Grenache Noir. It is aged reductively
- Rivesaltes Rouge is made mainly of Grenache
Noir. It can be Grenat (reductive),
Tuilé (oxidative) and for rare bottles,
rancio and hors d’age when
oxidatively aged
Maury Doux is in northern Roussillon
on steep limestone cliffs at the beginning of the Pyrenees
foothills. Maury's vins doux naturels are produced mainly from the
Grenache grape varieties.
- Maury Blanc is made with mainly Grenache
Blanc and Grenache Gris and aged reductively. There are
oxidative versions -- Maury Ambré and Hors
d’Age
- Maury Rouge is made with a minimum of 75%
Grenache noir with Grenache Blanc, Gris, Carignan, Syrah, Macabeu
(max 10%). Similar to Rivesaltes, there are Grenat, Tuilé, hors
d’age, and rancio versions. Wines labeled
with récolte, vendangeor vintage must
have aged a minimum of 12 months in an airtight environment, making
them a nonoxidative style of VDN.
Image of
Maury: WinesoftheRoussillon.com
Banyuls is one of the world's very few
fortified red wines. Its best sites are on steep slopes or narrow
terraces facing the sea. All Banyuls are made mainly from Grenache
grapes of various colors.
- Banyuls Rouge is required to be at least 50%
Grenache Noir. These wines are the best pairings with all manner of
chocolate. These classifications are different from Rivesaltes and
Maury
- Rimage is aged reductively and bottled early.
It has black fruit and chocolate flavors
- Rimage Mis Tardive is Rimage that is aged for
1-3 years
- Banyuls Tuilé, rancio, and hors d’age are aged
oxidatively
- Banyuls Blanc is made with Grenache blanc and
Grenache Gris. It can be ambré, rancio, and hors d’age
- Banyuls Rosé is young and fresh, made of
Grenache Noir and reductive

Banyuls Grand Cru is at least 75% Grenache that
is aged for a minimum of 30 months in oak – so all are slightly
oxidized. They can be labeled dry/sec/brut (all are ok to use) as
long as it has <5% sugar
Vins Doux Naturels of the Rhône
- Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise Vin Doux Naturel
is made only of Muscat à Petit Grains Blanc and Muscat Noir. Mutage
brings it to a minimum of 15% alcohol. It is sweet, white, rich,
but with a floral delicacy.
- Rasteau has become an important dry red wine
cru of the southern Rhône but this area also makes VDN in small
quantities. The wines must be at least 90% Grenache Noir, Grenache
Gris, Grenache Blanc. The VDNs are mostly red but some white and
rosé also made. All are best consumed young.
- Reds: Grenat, tuilé, hors d’age, rancio
- Whites: Blanc, ambré
Rasteau AOC: Image from Vins-Rhone
At minimum I hope you try Banyuls with some chocolate or the
Muscat of your choice with fruit or nut tart or your crème brûlée.
They make every meal complete and are such a bargain for what they
are!
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