May 19, 2018
It's a small part of the wine world but one you should know: the
Central Vineyards of the Loire Valley, which include Sancerre,
Pouilly-Fumé, Menetou-Salon & others. Great Sauvignon Blanc, up and
coming Pinot Noir, and fantastic rosé. History, soils and dorkiness
abound in this podcast, which will make your mouth water and have
you running out to get these wines ASAP!
The Central Loire Vineyards: Overview
- In the center of the Loire Valley, in the heart of France.
- All of the Central Vineyard appellations are within 80
kilometres (50 miles) of center of France
- Continental climate with decent rainfall
Appellations
Sancerre
- White, red, and rosé
- 3 main types of soil in the two appellations:
- Limestone (known locally as caillottes) – vines planted on
white rock
- Kimmeridgean terres blanches (clay limestone)
- Silex (flint)
- In Sancerre, the caillottes and terres blanches account for 40%
each and silex accounts for 20% of vineyard soils
- Often steepest vineyards best: Bué, Chavignol, Champtin
- Producers: Alphonse Mellot, Domaines Fouassier
and Vacheron, Lucien Crochet
Pouilly-Fumé and Pouilly-sur-Loire –
- Pouilly-Fumé only Sauvignon Blanc
- Pouilly-sur-Loire only Chasselas
- Soils -- similar to Sancerre
- Producers: Alexandre Bain, Domaine
Didier Dagueneau, Ladoucette
Difference between
Pouilly and Sancerre:
- Sancerre is a more cohesive appellation, Pouilly has no
clear centre – not touristy
- Sancerre has strong leading producers: Alphonse Mellot,
Jean-Marie Bourgeois, Denis Vacheron and others, to promote the
appellation.
Pouilly – no cohesion: the late Didier Dagueneau attacked lax
practices of his fellow producers. Ladoucette is largest producer
is Pouilly -- is an international businessman based in Paris
- Pouilly has been lower quality than Sancerre in recent years.
Shows promise but Sancerre is better quality and reliable
Menetou-Salon
- Southwest of Sancerre: More gently rolling than that of
Sancerre
- Vineyards more dispersed than Pouilly and Sancerre, more
variable
- Revival going on now
- Producers: Pierre and Isabelle Clément,
Domaine du Chatenoy, Domaine Philippe Gilbert
Quincy
- All Sauvignon Blanc
- First appellation created in Loire
- Flattest of the areas, prone to hail
Reuilly
- Dry, crisp Sauv Blanc with some Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris for
red and dry rosé
- Slightly better than Quincy
Coteaux du Giennois
- Vines are close to the Loire, mostly on its eastern bank
- Light-bodied, fruity and crisp, dry Sauvignon Blanc
- Reds have to be PN and Gamay blend – not good
- Dry rosé good
- The limestone soil is flinty.
Châteaumeillant – only 1% exported,
- Although included in the Central Loire, Châteaumeillant is
apart from the rest - in the northern foothills of the Massif
Central
- Granitic soil (Granite)
- Specializes in rosé wine known as vin gris, reds from Gamay and
Pinot Noir grapes
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