Jul 30, 2019
In this episode of the Grape Miniseries, we discuss Pineau de la
Loire, a.k.a, Chenin Blanc! This white grape is one of the most
versatile in terms of wine styles it can make – from floral
sparkling, to stunning dry and off dry versions to unctuous dessert
wines. Chenin is underrated, not always treated with regard, but it
has a pedigree and a class that can’t be doubted. After hearing
about all it has to offer, you’ll want to run out and get a bottle
ASAP!
Here are the show notes:
What Is Chenin Blanc?
- It’s a high acid, white grape that makes everything from
sparkling to dessert wines. When it’s grown poorly, it’s a boring
neutral grape that’s used for its acidity but when grown in the
right places, it can create a wine with great depth, character
- DNA: Chenin is related to Jura’s Savagnin – parent + unknown
grape
- French grape scientist – Pierre Galet – Chenin Blanc started in
Anjou in the 9thc, moved to Touraine by the 15thc
- 1520 – 1535 -- Grapes planted at Mount Chenin in Touraine by
the Lord of Chateaux de Chenonceau and the Abbot of Cormery
Flavors of Chenin
- Chenin can express terroir, winemaker ideas, vintage but at its
core it has a floral, mineral, honey note. Its nuances are
determined by terroir, soil type and style
- With botrytis the wine is like peaches, honey, apricots,
marzipan, quince
- Dry or off-dry from Loire: apple, chalk that turn into honey
and quince – off dry can age
- New World, especially South Africa: tropical fruit notes, good
acidity
Viticulture:
- Need ripeness and good control over its vigor to get depth and
complexity
- New clonal research is being done to delay budding because the
grape is prone to spring frost, increase sugar development
- Vintage variation: growers decide on a day by day basis what
style and dryness of Chenin blanc they could make
Winemaking
- New World: Can be blended or do well alone, some skin contact
to get different aroma, soften with malolactic, lees contact,
tropical notes bc of cooler temps of fermentation
- Old World – fermentation temps – higher (60-68˚f. 16-20˚c) so
they won’t get those tropical fruit flavors that come out with
cooler temps (50˚/10˚C) – no new oak/toastiness
- Loire:Made like German white wines – low, slow fermentations in
large old oak or stainless steel, no malolactic fermentation,
no barriques
Wine regions
Loire, France
- Sweet appellations:Coteaux du Layon,
Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, Vouvray
- Dry:Saviennières (Nicolas Joly) –
concentration, flavor, longevity, climate change has made dry wine
possible in most areas – although some is off-dry, tryig to become
a Grand Cru of the Loire
- Range of sweetness levels, from dry to semi-sweet to
sweet: Anjou, Crémant de Loire, Coteaux de l'Aubance,
Jasnières, Montlouis, Saumur, and Vouvray
- Varied:Saumur, Vouvray, Anjou –Vouvray
- Moelleux wines:Sweet but can be artificially
sweetened, so you need a good producer – Vouvray and Quarts de
Chaume the best
- Demi sec: great acidity, with a touch of sugar
sometimes seem dry b/c of the acidity
Languedoc: Crémant de Limoux, Chenin must
account for at least 20% and up to 40% of the blend
with Mauzac, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
South Africa
- Most in Western Cape: Stellebosch, Paarl
and then Swartland, Olifants River
- Good acidity in a hot climate
- Swartland Top Producers: Badenhorst, Mullineux, Eben Sadie
(blends
- Stellebosch Top Producers: Ken Forrester, De Morgenzon
United States
- California: Used it for jug wine because it had acidity,
irrigated to the hilt – high yields, 4x as high as in Loire
- Clarksburg AVA plus, Chappellet in Napa, Leo Steen in
Sonoma/Santa Ynez, Foxen in Santa Barbara
- Washington: Yakima
- Texas High Plains (a few hundred)
- Long Island, New York: Paumanok
Other wine regions: Australia,New Zealand,
Argentina blended with Chardonnay, Mexico and Canada, and India and
Thailand grow it too!
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